Planes, Trains and Automobiles

9 and a half months since we left home, Howard and i have been racking our brains thinking back to all the transport we must have used to get us between and around 12 countries. This is what we came up with:

Bus/coach 83
Tuk tuk 36
Boat 34
Train 28
Car/taxi 27
Plane 14
Pick up truck 9
Motorbike 6
Cyclo 4
Bicycle 3
Horse and cart 2

Only one journey left...homeward bound.

India, Jodhpur to Mumbai

These last two weeks we spent in the south and west of Rajasthan.

The larger than life Mehrangarh fort dominates the city of Jodhpur. It was never breached in its history so the palaces inside the walls are still beautifully preserved giving you an insight to the life of the maharajas. The views from the battlements are vast, showing the "blue city" in all its glory. The city looked alive with every boy and girl up on the roofs flying kites to celebrate the riki festival. We bought a paper kite and joined in although it was soon clear these kids were 

expert flyers, you could hear the little paper 

kites whipping through the air litlle birds.

Bundi was a lot quieter than the busy throngs of Jodhpur. It is soaked in royal opulence with its fairytale palace and many steps wells, some of which were commissioned for the royal ladies to bathe in. The intricate carvings and ornate arches tell of a time of grandeur. Bats are the only residents in the palace now and monkeys roam the rooftops often coming down into the gardens in search of food. In our case one quite aggressive male mistook flip flops for food and ran off with one dangling from its mouth. Howard was soon jumping over the wall stick in hand chasing after the monkey.

"The city of lakes", Udaipur is one of Rajasthans most romantic cities, where every rooftop and window looks out over Pichola lake with its glamorous lake palace where some of James Bonds Octopussy film was set. The locals love this fact, showing reruns of the film all day long. We had our best curry here in an outdoor restaurant on the lakeside. We weren't too thrilled about the prospect of going vegetarian for these 5 weeks, but the curries are so full of flavour we've hardly even noticed there's been no meat in them. Local Indian barfi (fudge-like sweets made from milk) were a nice treat after dinner.

We arrived in Mumbai after 16 hours on an overnight train from Udaipur. We stepped out of the somewhat derelict railway station to be met by dirty busy streets. Prices in Mumbai were much higher than anywhere else we had visited in India as we discovered when we payed over double what we usually pay to end up with a cell like room. Spent most of the days out and about in town exploring some of the local architecture and bazaars and took a train out to one of Mumbai's largest slums. 

Don't get lost in the maze that is Dharavi slum,

a city within a city. 

Our rucksacks had grown so big over the past 9 and a half months we had to spend a bit of time throwing what we could out and jiggling it all around before getting on our flight home.

India, Varanasi to Pushkar

India is like walking through a dazzling kaleidoscope, which we've loved almost every minute.

After enduring what was a noisy and uncomfortable 25 hour bus journey across the border from Nepal we finally arrived in Varanasi. Our first stop in India. It was just as we'd imagined; an assault on our senses. Litter, flies, spices, cattle, beggars grabbing our arms and of course horns being sounded from every moving vehicle. Varanasi is one of the holiest places in India where Hindu pilgrims come to the ghats (steps) lining the river Ganges to bathe in the sacred water, perform pooja (offer blessings to deities), wash their clothes or buffaloes or to cremate loved ones. A visit here is not complete without a sunrise boat trip down the river.

Our first train journey in India was not as bad as we were expecting. We slept in our bunks for 13 hours as we headed west to Agra. There we found a simple guesthouse with a 1st class view of the Taj Mahal from the rooftop restaurant, couldn't believe how close it was! The next morning we visited the Taj, so beautiful. We challenge you not to come over all mushy and sentimental as you gaze at this monument to love. 

Jaipur 'the pink city' was our next stop, 5 hours by train this is the gateway to Rajasthan. It is a chaotic and conjested city though still manages to draw you in. Despite the hassling tuk tuk drivers, inside the old city walls there are some beautiful palaces harking back to India's majestic past. The city palace and Hawa Mahal (a palace built for the ladies of the royal household to watch over the city) were well worth the visit. 

A contrast to Jaipur, Pushkar was a serene escape. The town and milky-coloured temples curl around the sacred lake where Lord Brahma was said to have dropped a lotus flower when on his search for a tranquil location. It was lovely to relax in the pool and do a bit of people watching sown by the lake where we saw sitar players and sadhus (wondering holy men). Pushkar has been our favorite place in India so far.

Hopefully our next and last 2 weeks of India and our trip will be just as good as these. 

Nepal

Where gods and mountains meet...

Our 18 days trekking in the Solukhumbu Everest region was by far the most incredible walking we've ever done. We arrived in Thamel, Kathmandu with nothing booked and very little kit. Feeling totally unprepared we spent 2 days in and out of trekking shops organizing guides, routes, permits and food. Finally we were on our way to the mountains!

After a 7 hour bus journey to Jiri a hillside town, our expedition began. At 7am the two of us and our guide Komar set off with Howard and I feeling quite the trekkers now with walking boots, down jackets and even some walking poles. The first 6 days from Jiri to Lukla rewarded us with beautiful views down the valleys and the opportunity to pass through local hillside villages. At this time of year the hills were alive with flowers and color making us stop every few minutes to take photos. We underestimated how difficult the walking in the lower reaches would be, flat ground was non existent as we scaled many passes over the valleys. Hours of uphill followed by hours of downhill, it was at times like these that we were grateful Komar was there encouraging us on. Think we may have stayed asleep at the lunch stops otherwise.

From Lukla we joined the EBC (Everest Base Camp) trail for the next 12 days, a well trodden route that takes you into the Himalays and upto 5,550m. Met some great people along the way, enjoyed playing cards with them around the fire in the tea houses after a tiring days walking. Being out of the trekking season however the towns and trails were extremely quiet, which suited us as most days we had the mountains to ourselves. Even though the route to base camp was easier walking than that from Jiri, as we got to higher altitudes our breathing became labored making everything harder as we breathed 50% less oxygen over 5,000m. Our best moment was walking upto Kala Patthar at 4am to wake up with the sun on Everest. Couldn't believe we were finally there looking at the top of the World!

Looking forward to having a hot shower and getting back to civilization it was a great relief to get straight on a flight from Lukla to Kathmandu after weather delays earlier in the week. We will always remember our time in the Himalayas and the feeling of being in the presence of the Worlds' highest peak.

Laos

Out of the Asian countries we've travelled in so far it was apparent that this was the poorest. Being one of the 20 poorest countries in the World Laos has had a lot of aid poured into it and even though you notice water pumps in some villages, most locals still have to walk to their nearest river or mountain stream to wash and use fiewood to cook their food. Despite the countries condition, Laos has been a pleasure to visit. If you want a place to kick back with a beer over looking the river and rugged green moutainsides then Nong Khiaw is the place for you. Walk through the village to be greeted by children running out onto the streets waving and shouting "sabaidee" (hello)! Enjoy watching the local men fish at dusk and relax in the hammock on your riverside hammock as you let time go by.

The tasty delights of Luang Prabang were much enjoyed by us as we sampled doughnuts, pot stickers and banana leaf wrapped eggplant. At 5.30am every morning hundreds of monks from surrounding monestries gather silently in town for the daily almsgiving where locals offer food to make merrit and show humbleness. We watched this tradition one morning, a spectacle in such a small town. This UNESCO World Heritage town is a good place to watch sunset from over the Mekong river and to marvel at the French era architecture, adding a touch of glamour.

Donning a large rubber tube we were set for our days tubing in Vang Vieng down the Nam Song river. After 4hours of playing volleyball with people from about 5 different nations and making the most of the cheap Lao beer at the riverside bars we drifted off down stream back to town, a good way to spend an afternoon.

You have to remember that this country along with its people are very relaxed, everything is done accourding to Lao time, so when your bus is due to leave and it is then that the driver decides to check the oil and change the battery you just have to sit back and smile. There's no urgency here.

Before we came to Laos we didn't know what to expect, but this lovely landlocked country has surprised us in every aspect, a country not to be overlooked!

Northern Vietnam

We didn't realise how green Vietnam was until we made our way North. Here is is very obvious, making a lovely contrast to the beaches of the South. In Ninh Binh we made our own way on motorbike to Tam Coc "three caves", this is what the vietnamese call "Halong Bay on land". Just as stunning as Halong Bay, we took a 2 hour row boat along the Ngo Dong river which weaves it way between limestone kasts and narrow caves. We were very impressed by the unsual rowing technique where they use their feet.

Spent a few days in Vietnams capital Hanoi where we ate our way through the old quarter, a maze of narrow streets where food stalls and craft shops spill out. We saw Halong Bay by doing a day trip from Hanoi where we discovered one of the Worlds natural wonders. Had a local Vietnamese lunch on the boat and then took to the emeral waters on kayaks to get a closer look.

Our favourite place in the North was Sapa. A hillside town at 1,600m and home to many ethnic minorities, it's surrounded by green peaks and rice paddies and at night becomes shrouded in mist. Sapa never fialed to be beautiful. Made some great friends in Vietnam, Hedley and Rosie especially who we kept bumping into along the way, lots of fun memories and dinners spent together. The four of us had a good day out on the bikes to a local market in Coc Ly, which thanks to Hedleys' iphone and google maps we actually managed to find! Lovely seeing the colourful flower H'mong people which gather at Coc Ly once a week from nearby villages. Even the ride there was beautiful with dramitc scenery through the valleys. A great end to a great month in Vietnam!

Hoi An, Vietnam

Prepare to be charmed...

This town has tradition in the bucket loads. As we cycled along the bumpy tracks weaving through the rice paddies men and women in conical hats (non la) could be seen tending to the fields, ploughing land and hearding ducks. Back in town motorbikes past by with pigs and chickens loaded on the back for market. At night the streets really come to life, with beautiful silk laterns, which Hoi An is renowned for making, lighting up every surface. We liked eating on the river bank where you can be served cao lau (noodles, pork, bean sprouts and mint) for 60 pence and then strolling around the night market across the river. Our favourite place in Vietnam so far.

Southern Vietnam

The roads in Ho Chi Minh lived upto all the stories we've heard. Chatting to some students who wanted to practice their English with us. We mentioned the busy roads and one said quote "dont't try to avoid them, just walk and let themavoid you, what will be will be". So as you can imagine that put our minds at ease. From Ho Chi Minh we took a day trip to the Mekong Delta where we tasted freshly made coconut candy, had a ride down the narrow canals in a traditional canoe and met some lively Filipinos along the way. Had a fun day heading out in a jeep to the great sanddunes at Muine, what a rush hurtling down the them on sandboards, less fun walking back upcovered in sand. Using coaches and sleeper buses to travel up the coast we stopped at Dalat and Nha Trang where i spent my birthday on the beach with pinocoladas.

Cambodia-towns

Eating noodles from a street vendor in Siem Reap, surviving a ride on the bamboo train in Battenbang and sharing the beaches with food sellers in Sihanoukville...lots of local flavors and experiences to be had around Cambodia.

Street stalls have been our restaurant of choice these past two weeks, cheap, tasty and always cooked fresh in front of you whilst you wait on the pavement, you'll be eating within a couple of minutes. The bamboo train was quite an experience, originally built by the French  70 years ago to transport people and food between Battenbang and the capital Phnom Penh, the single track rail is now overgrown and used only between local villages. Scarier then the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland, we endured a bumpy and noisy 14km journey having to disassemble our train (norry) when we met another oncoming train. Kicked back on the beach on the south coast for a few days before crossing the border into Vietnam.

Cambodia-Temples

Of course a trip to Cambodia is not complete until you visit the temples at Angkor. A 5am start to the day, we traveled in the dark in our tuk tuk (motorbike taxi) to see the glory of Angkor Wat as dawn broke behind it. It was truly magical as the temple became bathed in pink hues. From there we spent the rest of the day temple hopping, seeing The Bayon, Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm (where Tomb Raider was filmed), although at one point we though we might be left there as our tuk tuk had deserted us and we had to flag down another.  

Northern Thailand

Northern Thailand, where locals, businessmen, travelers and monks share the streets...

Times spent in the north was very different to that of the south. With no beaches to spend our days we got on our bicycles and set our exploring the many temples dotted around the cities. It can be unbearably hot walking around at times, with no way of cooling off apart from taking three showers a day (no such luxury of air con or swimming pools), bikes were definitively the way forward. 

In Ayutthaya; one of Thailand's early and most revered kingdoms, we discovered the ruins of ancient Khmer temples from the 14^thC hidden amongst the sprawling urban center. We visited the Karen Longneck tribe, immigrants from Burma they now reside in the Thailand's hillsides. Was interesting to see their villages and hear their story. Really enjoyed the north, felt a real sense of culture here where monks are offered food every morning and people pray in the streets. 

Similan & Surin Islands Liveaboard

 DIVE, EAT, SLEEP, REPEAT...


Spent 4 days and nights on the Andaman Sea 5 hours off Thailand's west coast. Most of the dive sites were made up of coral bombies and granite boulders which provided great swim-throughs and surfaces for soft corals to thrive. Felt like a holiday off from backpacking, we didn't have to budget or get our wallets our for 4 whole days. Oi the boats chef cooked up enough food to fuel our starving stomachs after 4 dives a day. 1st dives were at 6.30am and last dives we surfaced just as the sun was setting. Thai and dive crew were all good fun throughout the whole trip, the biggest smiles in Thailand. Thanks to Hugh our dive guide who showed us some incredible marine life from leopard sharks to seahorses and everything in between. What a laugh everyone had on the boat together, we hope this liveaboard will be the 1st of many!

Southern Thailand

Arrived in Thailand bright and early after a 12 hour night bus from Malaysia. Boarded a boat headed for the Phi Phi islands where we were met by a throng of people at the pier throwing bags off the boats and ushering you into their hotels. Leaving the hustle and bustle behind we wondered out to a quieter spot where we found a beach where you can snorkel with black tip reef sharks. Took a longtail boat to Phi Phi Lay where Maya Bay was made famous as the setting for the film "The Beach".

Had a couple of great days climbing on the limestone cliffs at the World renowned Railay. With hundreds of sports routes to choose from, any climber would be spoilt here. An overnight ferry took us to Koh Tao, a small island on the east coast of Thailand. Definitely an experience sleeping amongst 60 other people on the floor of the boat. Nang Yuang (sand bar islands) off Koh Tao were beautiful. Howard and I are sat here finding it hard to describe in words just how stunning it was; best to just see photo above. From Koh Tao we went to Phuket where we awaited pickup for our diving liveaboard trip...

Diving Mataking, Sabah

An hour boat trip out from Semporna we arrived at Mataking Island. The visibility was 25m plus, the coral was untouched and with only 6 people at the site we were spoilt on this dive. Some of the best spots were great barracuda, frogfish, ghost pipefish, scorpionfish and nidibranchs galore. We were so impressed with the coral at Mataking, rich in colour and biodiverse! Would definitely recommend Borneo to any divers.

Had a great time in Borneo, the people were some of the friendliest we've met so far...even if they don't understand you most of the time.